Balayage vs Foils: How to Choose

Balayage vs foils is probably the question we answer most often at the basin. Both lighten your hair. Both look lovely done well. The right one comes down to the finish you want and how often you can get back in the chair. This page puts them side by side so you can see the trade-offs, including what each costs here at Crew.

If you're after the full rundown on balayage on its own, our balayage guide covers that.

What's the difference between foils and balayage?

It's about how the lightener goes on.

With foils, your colourist takes fine sections, often woven, lays them on a strip of foil and paints lightener from close to the root down to the ends, then folds the foil shut. The foil holds in warmth and keeps each section separate, so you get strong, even lift from top to bottom.

With balayage, the colourist paints lightener freehand onto the surface of the hair. It's lighter at the ends, softer through the middle and barely touches the root. Some sections sit open to the air, some are separated with film or cotton.

Same lightener, different placement. That placement is what changes how it looks and how it grows out.

Balayage vs foils at a glance

Toner is listed separately for both ($50 short, $66 medium, $75 long hair).

How much do foils cost compared with balayage?

Foils are priced by how much of the head we do, which gives you more ways to keep costs in check. Here's our foils menu alongside balayage.

Per visit, a full head of foils and a balayage refresh cost the same. The difference is how often you come back. A lot of foil clients keep it manageable by alternating: a half head at one visit, a full head at the next. All current prices are on our price list.

How do they grow out in real life?

This is where most people make up their mind.

At around six weeks, foils start to show a band of your natural colour at the parting. On fair hair it's subtle. On darker hair it's noticeable, and it's why most foil clients rebook at six to eight weeks.

Balayage at six weeks looks almost the same as the day you left. By three months the toner has faded and your ends may look a bit warm, but the root still blends. Push it past four months and the lightness sits lower and lower, which is when a refresh makes sense.

Which should you choose?

Go for foils if you want bright blonde right up to the parting, you're blending a fair bit of grey, or you like a crisp, polished finish and don't mind booking in every couple of months. Our foils and highlights page has more on the options.

Go for balayage if you'd rather come in three or four times a year, you want it to look natural as it grows, or your hair is darker and you want warmth and movement rather than full blonde. See our balayage page.

Plenty of clients end up with a mix: a balayage base with a few fine foils around the face, where brightness shows most. We'll often suggest that for someone who wants a lighter frame but can't commit to six-weekly visits.

Looking after either at home

Both are lightened hair, so the aftercare is close to identical. A gentle shampoo like Kérastase Blond Absolu Bain Lumière ($57.12), a violet shampoo once a week such as Blond Absolu Bain Ultra-Violet ($57.12), and conditioner after every wash. Foils, with more lightened hair near the scalp, can need a touch more moisture, and a mask like Blond Absolu Masque Ultra-Violet ($91.56) once a week helps.

Still not sure?

Book the free 15-minute colour consultation. Your natural base, any old colour and how light you want to go all change what's realistic, and it's much easier to judge with your hair in front of us. We're upstairs at Level 1, 22 The Mall in central Queenstown. You can book online any time or call 03 441 8555.